We started off staying at Camp 4, traditionally the climber’s campground in Yosemite as it is the only walk-in campground and all other campgrounds were reserved. The night we arrived it sprinkled a bit but the rock was dry by midday and we were climbing at the VERY popular Swan Slabs by late afternoon. Swan Slabs is the Yosemite version of Burgers & Fries cliff in Squamish, with packs of guides swarming the place with their clients during the weekend but during the week the climbs are worth doing, with lots of fun moderate crack climbing on offer. On our second day we headed for the classic 5.6 Munginella, originally named for being a bit, well, mungy and dirty. The climb is excellent with lots of fun moves and some requisite dirt and sand at the top. We also met an English couple on the route who had just arrived in the US, bought a car and are off for a 6 month climbing road trip. They became our friends in Camp 4.
The weekend in Camp 4 became less like a climber meeting spot and more like high school hell, with a pack of drunken teenagers monopolizing the place for the weekend. US Parks budget cuts (hey, I guess they need more firepower abroad?) mean that Camp 4 was not on the Ranger radar until May… quiet hours what? On Sunday, we climbed an amazing 2 pitch crack route- Jamcrack – and were fortunate enough to learn from some nice locals about getting a campsite through the cancellations lists at the other, much nicer campsites. We lucked out and got a site for a full week at Upper Pines and so we able to leave Camp 4 after a week. We convinced Helen and Lewis, our new English friends, to come and live with us in the plush new site. They were good fun and were teaching us ‘cheating’ Scrabble and other useful things!
Installed in our new site, surrounded by trees and the occasional motor-home, we were much happier and got down to some more demanding climbing days. We finally climbed Nutcracker, a historical 5.8 multi-pitch on the Manure Pile Buttress (a great piece of rock), which was apparently the first route in the Valley first led on ‘nuts’ (a new type of climbing protection). However, there was still a multitude of piton scars (an older type of protection, now frowned upon in places) on the route, which was a mystery to us.
Helen about to top out on Nutcracker
Over the next few days Dave climbed a few extra days with first Helen and Lewis, on the Central Pillar of Frenzy, then with Lewis on Selaginella, a wild 5.9 offwidth. For those non-climbers in the audience: offwidths are cracks that are too big to jam hands or feet in, but too small to fit the entire body in. Climbing them involves techniques that few climbers can apply gracefully, and usually a lot of grunting and sweating. The climbing experience can also vary greatly depending on the size of the climber.
Fun chimneying for some
Hard offwidth for others
Rather than ‘enjoy’ any more wide cracks, Megan and Helen took advantage of the free art classes offered daily at the Yosemite Art Activity Centre. The technique the day we went was ‘travel sketching’, which seemed very appropriate for our situation. Yosemite’s landscape pretty much inspires even the most art illiterate to try their hand and Megan really enjoyed the experience.
For our final day, all four of us went to climb Royal Arches, a classic and very long (15 pitches up and 12 rappels down) route. After our 9 hour day on the wall we pretty much scarfed food and were in bed by 8.30! We left the next day after spending about 2 1/2 weeks in the Valley, wishing our new friends good luck and hoping to see them later this summer in Squamish…
Lewis leading, Helen belaying, soloist sunbathing - Royal Arches
When you're traveling in a big country, you need a big map!
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